Not many people have heard about radon or radon testing in Denver. And, for those who have heard about radon, whatever knowledge they have is not enough to understand radon and its implications completely. Therefore, they tend to raise questions compiled in this article as seven frequently asked questions. We hope to cater to almost every question that comes up in your head about radon gas.
What is radon, and where does it come from?
Radium decay in the soil produces radon, a radioactive noble gas. Lung cancer incidence in underground miners indicates their long-term exposure to high radon levels. The only way to identify this colorless, odorless, invisible gas (radon gas) is by using the right tools and procedures.
The radium in rocks, soil, water, and products made from rocks and soils, such as some building materials, constantly produces radon. The type of your house affects the radon concentration within. Radon from the soil will enter the home through cracks, gaps, and other penetrations in the building’s foundation. Essential variables determining how much radon gets into various parts of your house include ventilation rate and airflow patterns.
Additionally, radon can dissolve in groundwater and be released into indoor air when well water is aerated in appliances like washing machines and showers.
How can I find the radon levels in my home?
The two types of radon testing in Colorado are short-term (less than 90 days, usually 2 to 7 days) and long-term (anywhere from 3 to 12 months).
The charcoal canister is the most frequently used instrument to measure short-term radon levels in homes. Typically, this tool is a little metal can in the size and shape of a tuna fish that holds activated charcoal. A laboratory can detect the decay products to measure the amount of radon in the air once the charcoal absorbs the radon in the air. These devices are pretty quick, affordable, and simple to use.
It is well known that radon levels vary depending on the time of day and the day’s temperature. The seasons also impact them; usually, they rise in the winter. You can get an accurate annual average by using a long-term testing instrument. A long-term test is a better predictor of the average radon level, even though short-term tests are helpful for screening in situations where findings are required immediately. The Alpha Track detector, sometimes known as AT, is a more popular long-term detector type. AT detector measurements collected over 12 months in habitations are sufficient for making decisions.
How can I reduce the radon levels in an existing house?
You can reduce a home’s radon levels in many ways. The active sub-slab depressurization system is one of the more popular ways to accomplish this. However, there are other ways as well. Releasing the soil gas from beneath the basement to a point above the roof will reroute the radon gas. The gas will then move from the soil away from the house. Installing this method typically costs between $1000 and $1500 and is quite effective. Information about mitigation is available in the Radon Mitigation Standards. You can also call for a radon inspection in Denver to better understand your house’s radon levels.
Are we sure that radon is a health risk?
In terms of the connection between radon exposure and the emergence of lung cancer, EPA already has access to a lot of scientific evidence. The occupational mining data is a very reliable foundation from which scientific professionals agree to estimate the risk of lung cancer fatalities each year. Residential radon epidemiology research will advance the understanding of radon, but it won’t replace occupational data.
The Centers for Disease Control (CDC), the Surgeon General, and other leading health organizations concur that the current state of knowledge is sufficient to advise radon testing. They also recommend radon inspection in Denver, CO, to promote public action when levels are above 4 pCi/L.
What does a professional radon contractor do?
Your radon contractor will design a radon mitigation system to lower your radon levels based on the building of your home, the kind of soil beneath your home, whether you have a completed basement or a crawlspace, and the climate in which you reside.
Your home’s radon gas will be drawn from below by your mitigation system and vented above your roofline. Your radon level should drop below 4.0 pCi/L, ideally to 2.0 pCi/L.
Active soil depressurization (ASD) systems are the most often installed systems. Before installing your system, the contractor will evaluate your house and seal any sizeable cracks, drains, sumps, and crawlspaces.
Should I test the soil for radon before building?
Even though soil testing is an option, it does not eliminate the likelihood that radon could be a problem in the house you plan to construct on the property. It is not advisable to test the soil for radon to decide whether or not to build a radon-resistant house. Even if soil testing reveals low levels of radon gas in the soil, it is impossible to predict how much radon will enter the finished home. It is impossible to foresee how site preparation will affect the entry of new radon pathways or the degree to which the house will create a vacuum.
A single radon soil test can cost between $70 and $150, and it may take between 4 and 8 tests to accurately define the radon levels in the soil at a single building site. As a result, installing a passive radon system in high radon potential areas is much less expensive than performing soil testing.
How do I know if my radon mitigation system is working properly?
To reduce the radon levels in your home, a contractor may employ one of several techniques. While some methods lower radon levels after it has entered your house, others work to prevent radon from entering in the first place. The EPA generally suggests radon entrance prevention techniques. For instance, soil suction draws radon from below the house and vents it through a pipe or pipes to the air above it, which dilutes immediately. This prevents radon from entering your home.
Systems for reducing radon require routine maintenance, just like a furnace or chimney. You should regularly inspect your warning device to ensure the system is operating properly. Manufacturer warranties typically do not go beyond five years; however, fans may last for longer, at which point they may need to be fixed or replaced. It will cost between $200 and $350 to replace a fan, parts included. Retesting your home at least every two years can ensure that the radon levels are still low.
